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Tuesday, 30 October 2012

Job: 20th to 28th October. Scottish Borderlands.



Up next was a week long trip to Kelso cooking for a fishing party – and a pretty expert one at that, if the number of salmon caught were anything to go by. Poached salmon galore! (cooked, not stolen) and cheerfully the nearby Ednam House Hotel runs a little smokery and lets fruitful fishers of the Tweed bring their bounty along to be cold smoked. A very brilliant way to deal with extravagant gluts of spanking fresh salmon. I was a regular visitor by the end of the week and would smile as I crossed the market place with 8 pounders (or so) slung over my shoulder, dangling fattly down my back, as no one ever looked twice. Obviously a common sight in Kelso.


Happily, once the exceptionally committed team had left early in the morning with their rolls, Tunnock bars and Krug (the quantities of which ascended in that order), I had quite a lot of time on my hands to investigate the Borders. The countryside that spreads out either side along the Tweed is seriously stunning and castles (both ruined and very not ruined) were almost more prolific than salmon (I think).  I managed to see one nearly everyday, but the best and most breathtaking was Fast Castle – a long since ruined fort perilously perched on a sea stack - and all the more special since it’s not signposted at all (I noticed it on an OS map) and to reach it is quite a steep hike along the cliff edge. It felt pretty hairy, and possibly silly, to cross to in wet and windy weather, but curiosity got the better of me and I’m glad that it did; there was a little shingle cove far below dotted with fluffy white specks, like basmati; seal pups!
On a finger-snappingly cold day I met with a friend who lives in the Borders (and lives to fish) for a riverside picnic and a quick go in the bank bursting water myself. Not a bite. We all left empty handed but with tummies full of treacle tart. I have to say I wasn’t glum; that first proper proper wintry day made for spectacular river bank beauty and I’d rather seen enough salmon for one week.


Then back south (lor, I feel like a yoyo) for a weekend in my old stamping ground, Gloucestershire. It’s lovely to be back for a traditional shoot weekend and the same old soufflés, chocolate fondants and the general 70’s style eating they love, and is so jolly to cook.