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Sunday 12 May 2013

Job: 6th May to 12th May, Morayshire, Scotland.


Back up to Scotland and this time the larches have got fir on. The sun has decided to show it’s bonny face to see out the end of Spring. This lodge is on a beach not far from Elgin and happily for me the view from the kitchen window is a stunning one: a bit of grass and dune, then sand and sea.  I can gaze over the Moray Firth to the hazy hills of Sutherland and Caithness where Morven peeps his quirky head above his friends like a piece of Toblerone with a bite out of it, surrounded by Walnut Whips. We’ve watched dolphins and porpoises nearly every night.
In amongst cooking and gazing at the view I’m reading up on the Picts; I have a new History of Scotland book. This was their land before they were absorbed by the Scots, so I’m making it my mission to use any time-off this week roving a Pictish trail. To begin: Burghead Pictish fort and the standing stones of Sueno and Rodney.

(This photo of Rodney's Stone from http://www.mcjazz.f2s.com/Picts.htm)

I’ve seen a lot of stone art recently in Ireland and the Western Isles, but these Pictish symbols and carvings are super strange and beautiful and poignant with mystery.  Rodney's Stone stands at the bottom of Brodie Castle’s drive, so I went in to have a look. Not what you’d expect from a looming Scottish castle; it’s ultra airy and light inside and very very pretty. Graceful. And a mighty art collection too; works from the Scottish Colourists McTaggart, Peploe, Cadell and Hunter. There was Dufy next to Van Dyke, a Landseer and a Bloemaert among plenty more.
Outside were woodlands full of wood sorrel, so I picked two handfuls to scatter on the top of tonight’s lobster noodles.  It’s so cheering to find growing things again, to pick and eat. We’ve had heaps of asparagus this week already and yet more wild garlic pistou, this time on bruschetta with locally made crème fraiche. There’s still not much fruit though…rhubarb, rhubarb, rhubarb….. so puds have harked back to more wintery days, like Meringue Mont Blanc’s - renamed 'Meringue Morven’s' with a hail to that hill. Scatterings of gorse and rosemary flowers have joined the primroses adorning plates of food.


I went on a wander along the cliff path in search of Sculptor’s Cave near Covesea – a haunting place with Pictish symbols carved into the rock. It was another warm, blue-sky afternoon. Fulmars glided protectively around their cliffs. Whitethroat’s were lustfully throating and the sea pinks were just about poking their pink out.
I walked with butterflies. In the shelter of the dunes, gorse bloom brushed the air. The sunny yellow flower was at it’s magnificent best, wafting coconut scent, and I took in lungful’s of it. With the breeze in the right direction and my eyes closed I could be in Puerto Rico with a piña colada. (Though when in the wrong direction it just smelt of dog poo. Sadly this is a place with ‘dog walker's’ attached to the ‘paradise’). But what with the gorse and inhaling yoga style breathes from a fluffy tuft of primroses it felt like I was breathing in the sunshiny yellowness of it all.
If only everyone exalted in such easily sought pleasures and the little gems of memories they give! They are simple riches. Truly simple, truly rich. I’m certain the world would be a happier place, or at least Britain might be anyway.


And so to the kitchen. Tonight: warm ‘potted shrimps’ with homemade focaccia to dip in to the nutmeg-y butter. The bread was stuffed with nettle sprigs and Crowdie. Rhubarb syllabub for pud!
One salmon was caught today, but two fishermen fell into the Findhorn. That’s one up to the King of Fish...